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Can The Fallen Angels Rise Again?

2024-10-17 03:50:03

Victoria’s Secret, once a defining force in the fashion industry, made a highly anticipated return to the runway with its rebranded Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show. The iconic lingerie brand canceled its show in 2018 after plummeting ratings and sharp criticism for being out of touch, with many calling the brand sexist, outdated, and lacking in diversity. Before the show’s cancellation, I had already warned of the brand’s waning relevance in the media.

After a six-year hiatus, Victoria’s Secret promised inclusivity, showcasing plus-size models like Ashley Graham, Moroccan and Egyptian descent model Imaan Hammam, transgender models such as Valentina Sampaio, and icons like Tyra Banks, Kate Moss, and Gigi Hadid. Yet, despite these efforts, the show surprisingly stuck to the same visual language, style, and sensibility that had once brought the brand to its knees.

What were they thinking?

Sure, the runway was more diverse, featuring models of different body types from Devyn Garcia to Blesnya Minher—but at this point, how could it not be? Anything less would have been inexcusable.

Despite glitzy musical performances from Cher, Tyla, and Lisa (not a huge shift from stars like Katy Perry in previous years), and the thankful removal of the outdated Fantasy Bra, the brand failed to push boundaries—either in reality or fantasy—leaving many unimpressed.

So, what can we take away from this brand revival that, in my view, clearly missed the mark? And, more importantly, what can leaders in branding—and beyond—learn to avoid similar mistakes?

1. Inclusion Isn’t a Trend—It’s a Transformation

While it was good to see Victoria’s Secret include more diverse models, like Imaan Hammam and Anok Yai, the core message of the show remained largely unchanged. The return of longtime models like Adriana Lima, Alessandra Ambrosio, and Candice Swanepoel brought back the same old glamour—which was great to see—but there was no further, real reimagining of the brand.

For brands like Victoria’s Secret, inclusion must be more than just a runway feature—it needs to be embedded in every aspect of the company, from product design and marketing to company culture and leadership. Extended sizes, plus-size models, and transgender representation must be part of the brand’s DNA, not just a necessity for a single event, and that must be expressed in the most authentic way. And while Victoria’s Secret has made some strides on this front, under business duress, when brands treat diversity as an obligation rather than a commitment, they fail to make a lasting impact, and most importantly, it shows.

2. Own Your History to Shape Your Future

Victoria’s Secret’s past is tied to unrealistic ideals of beauty—most famously represented by their massive angel wings and hypersexualized runway shows. I believe the brand missed a valuable opportunity to not only reclaim but also to reimagine its narrative. Victoria’s Secret could have done this in one of many ways. For example, they could have used humor—turning their legacy on its head and showing they don’t take themselves too seriously. Lingerie, after all, is meant to be fun, isn’t it?

According to research from Oracle, 90% of consumers are more likely to remember a funny ad, and 72% would choose a brand with a sense of humor over its competitors. Similar findings have been produced by Kantar and System1. Imagine Victoria’s Secret adding a playful moment, like models referencing their past lives as “angels” with humor and ridicule, embracing a bold rebrand. But instead, they stuck to the same formula, leaving me—and likely many others—skeptical about their authenticity.

Leaders should recognize that humor can disarm criticism and help rebuild trust. Acknowledging past mistakes and even making fun of them could have helped Victoria’s Secret connect more deeply with their audience and show their human and more vulnerable side. The show seemed to still be striving for an ideal of perfection—-which savvy audiences recognize no longer exists. It’s your imperfections that make you perfect.

3. Playing Catch-Up Isn’t Enough—You Must Lead

In the competitive fashion industry, simply catching up with trends isn’t enough. Victoria’s Secret’s rebrand could have taken a page out of the success of brands like Savage X Fenty, which revolutionized the industry with inclusivity, bold imagery, and a fresh take on lingerie and beauty.

While it was exciting to see a fashion icon like Gigi Hadid kick off the show, and models like Vittoria Ceretti walk the runway, the overall event lacked the innovation needed to stand out. Victoria’s Secret had the opportunity to lead with fresh, disruptive ideas, but instead, they followed the well-established diversity trend without pushing the boundaries.

Innovation is critical for brands to stay relevant. According to a study from BCG, 79% of companies now rank innovation among their top three priorities—a 15-point increase since 2009—and 66% plan to increase their innovation spending, with 42% aiming for more than a 10% increase. Brands like Victoria’s Secret can’t just catch up with the competition—they must be bold enough to set new trends and redefine what lingerie means for today’s consumers.

4. Audiences Demand Substance, Not Symbolism

Despite the inclusion of curvy women, transgender models, and extended sizes, the overall tone of the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show felt more symbolic to me rather than substantive. Sure, there were probably going to be some feathered angel wings this time, and thankfully the outdated diamond-encrusted Fantasy Bra was nowhere in sight, but the show still relied on the same pageantry and spectacle of a Miss World that felt out of step with today’s sensibilities.

In my book The Kim Kardashian Principle, I emphasize the importance of authenticity. Audiences today are savvier than ever, and they can easily spot when brands prioritize surface-level gestures over meaningful change. A significant 81% of customers need to trust a brand before making a purchase, and 86% believe that authenticity is crucial for supporting a brand.

Victoria’s Secret’s creative director may have updated some elements of the show, but the reliance on past symbols—like beaded heart-shaped wings—made it clear that the brand is still holding onto its problematic past and hasn’t entirely moved on.

5. Trust Is Earned Through Consistency, Not Grand Gestures

Victoria’s Secret’s return to the runway felt more like a less than grand gesture than a sustained effort to rebuild trust. Trust isn’t earned overnight. Even if Victoria’s Secret had hit all the right notes with this fashion show, they need to follow up with consistent actions that reinforce their commitment to inclusivity.

In 2021, I wrote about how Victoria’s Secret’s diversity campaign, Victoria’s Secret Collective, was dead on arrival, as the brand seemed to swap one beauty ideal for another. That would not be the definition of inclusion. The Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show comeback this year feels similarly misaligned. To regain credibility, Victoria’s Secret must go beyond the runway and focus on long-term actions that reflect a genuine cultural transformation—from the way they market their collections to how they communicate with their audience throughout the year.

Bottom Line: The Runway to Redemption Is Paved with Action

It was clear to see how Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show made an attempt to convince its audience that the brand had evolved—but is it enough to reverse six years of declining sales? I doubt it. The runway to redemption is a long one, and it requires more than a rebranded runway show to win back trust.

To truly reclaim their position in the market, Victoria’s Secret must move beyond symbolic gestures like their beloved angel wings and focus on real, meaningful change that resonates with today’s consumers. A global study by Kantar reveals that 75% of consumers say a brand’s diversity and inclusion reputation influences their purchase decisions. Brands like Victoria’s Secret must recognize that consumers want authenticity, not performance.

I haven’t written off Victoria’s Secret just yet. And I do believe that if they own their past, embrace bold innovation, and consistently show up with real values, they can still turn the page and connect with today’s more conscious consumers.

Named Esquire’s Influencer Of The Year, Jeetendr Sehdev is a media personality, international speaker and the author of the New York Times bestselling sensation, The Kim Kardashian Principle: Why Shameless Sells (and How to Do It Right.)

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