the future of Hong Kong’s ‘24-hour’ suit

This article is part of a guide to Hong Kong from FT Globetrotter

For decades, Hong Kong has been the city of the 24-hour suit. Time-poor presidents and dignitaries have flocked to its tailors in search of a garment that can be measured, made and delivered within the space of a day or two. Michael Palin and Richard Ayoade too, in their similarly hasty television documentaries, hurried to outfit themselves in bespoke attire before the credits rolled.

Hong Kong inherited its tailoring tradition from Shanghai after outfitters and their clientele fled there in the wake of the Chinese Communist revolution in 1949. The city’s subsequent reputation as a financial hub fostered a culture of quicker-than-usual tailoring thanks to a constant flow of travellers short on time and in search of suits cheaper than they might find in the west.

However, the 24-hour suit increasingly seems like a relic of unnecessarily fast and not terribly fastidious fashion, with more and more tailors now taking pride in taking their time. So where does this leave the traveller in search of a stylish memento?

During a recent week-long trip, I wanted to take in the Hong Kong tailoring experience, but also come away with a suit that had a little more longevity (and structural integrity) than a postcard. In doing so, I discovered a younger set of talented tailors, less known to tourists and travellers but more than up to the challenge of outfitting them.

“When you want [a suit] in quicker time than is normal, that’s when you’re compromising on quality,” says Jerry Tong, co-founder of Prologue, a relatively recent addition to the city’s made-to-measure menswear scene and my destination for a slightly slower summer suit. Tong, a former management consultant, co-founded the brand in 2016 after identifying a gap in the city’s tailoring offering for accessibly priced garments that wouldn’t sacrifice quality for a two-day turnaround.

For every Bill Clinton-endorsed atelier (Sam’s Tailor in Tsim Sha Tsui claims four US presidents — Clinton included — among its clients over the years), visitors may encounter a dozen more offering pace and price tags that seem too good to be true. Prologue is one of a new generation that won’t commit to a turnaround that risks rushing the finished product for a tight deadline. “If it’s three days, I can’t help you,” says Tong diplomatically.

Speed is just one of the preconceptions about Hong Kong style that Prologue, among others, has tasked itself with quashing. See also: the idea that not everyone can pull off a double-breasted jacket; that offering bespoke tailoring means giving up any kind of consistent aesthetic; and, in my case, that the two-piece linen affair I was debating would just end up a crumpled mess the minute I sat down in it. During my first appointment at the Sheung Wan showroom, I am soon persuaded of linen’s virtues, but pass on the “DB”, as Tong and his colleagues affectionately refer to the style.

The made-to-measure approach at Prologue is a dialogue between tailor and client, but one heavily informed by the brand’s distinct aesthetic. Styles skew southern Italian with Asian finishing — think higher waists, broader shoulders and heavier on the pleating. None of which is obligatory, but Tong tends to find that repeat customers end up incorporating more and more of the elements of the house style in future purchases. For the ex-management consultant, establishing an aesthetic is more important than acting as a 3D printer.

“There are tailors who will make whatever a customer wants,” he says. “We won’t,” adds a colleague, scarcely looking up from his computer. Not that Tong and his colleagues are judgmental. On my first visit to their Central atelier, an elegant first-floor space near Sheung Wan, they are abundantly generous with their time, advice and whisky collection. Measurements are taken, but more importantly aspirations are assessed and motivations minded.

Prologue is not the only brand hoping to appeal to a new generation seeking quality over quickness. “It is fascinating to witness a resurgence of younger customers — a marked difference from two decades ago, when tailoring was on the brink of extinction,” says Buzz Tang, co-founder of menswear house The Anthology, which he launched in 2018 with business partner Andy Chong. Tang believes that in Hong Kong, where living space is particularly constrained, customers are increasingly looking for quality over quantity in their suits.

Tang studied in London and worked on Savile Row, so his styles for The Anthology are influenced by British tailoring but with a modern twist: overall, a softer, lighter style with extended shoulders and a lower gorge (the point where the collar meets the lapel). Partly in recognition of changing workwear tendencies and rising temperatures, and partly with a view to establishing a distinct house style, Tang wants tailoring to be more inclusive by taking a relaxed, unstuffy approach.

“Unfortunately, the prevailing international perception of Hong Kong’s tailoring scene, particularly among older generations, remains centred on the fast turnaround, 24-hour suits,” he says. Younger tailors — Tang is 26, Tong is 34 — are hoping to change that.

But if you are in a hurry, the best thing you can do is to plan ahead. Before a first visit, Tong recommends having a clear picture of when and where you will wear the suit. Is it for a specific event? If so, how specific is the dress code? If it’s for the office, do you risk outdressing your boss? Then come the specifics: two- or three-piece? Single- or double-breasted? Material? Pockets? Lining? Lapels? And, crucially, what’s your budget? The clearer a picture you have in your mind from the outset, the smoother the process will be and the happier you’ll be with your purchase.

Material should depend both on the look you’re after and the climate you have to contend with. For somewhere as hot and humid as Hong Kong, linen and cotton are advisable; in London, wool, flannel and cashmere may be more appropriate. Colour is subjective, but resist the temptation to venture too far off piste unless you have a clear vision of the result in mind. 

Prologue’s aesthetic leans looser and more relaxed than you might expect, with a straight, wide leg and generously notched lapels. “A guy looks best when he’s comfortable,” says Tong. He emphasises the need for “living room” in a design — one that won’t just look good on a mannequin, but on a moving model too.

Most importantly, don’t forsake quality for speed. “Don’t do it for cheap, as it is not a true shortcut,” advises Tang. “One well-tailored and constructed garment with a good tailor who understands your style triumphs over mediocre experiences.” Nevertheless, the city’s tailors are priced competitively: a made-to-order two-piece suit from Prologue starts at HK$9,900 ($1,270/£1,000), with bespoke offerings from HK$12,000 ($1,535/£1,210); at The Anthology, bespoke tailoring starts at $2,500.

On my second visit to Prologue, five days after the first, a work-in-progress is tried on and pins are employed: in my case, to hike up the trousers slightly to avoid an angle forming around the back of the knee; to lift the right side of the jacket to correct a small imbalance in my shoulder height; and to tighten the collar around my apparently particularly thin neck. Photographs are taken for future reference. “We fit what we see,” says Tong, likening the images to a barber drying the hair of a customer at the end of a cut in order to continue assessing the fit.

Once the adjustments have been noted, the suit is taken apart again and refitted according to the pin placements — a process that takes about two to three weeks, after which the suit is ready and can be shipped to customers who have already left Hong Kong. In an ideal world, the in-person process would take slightly longer, but Tong is happy to expedite things for those travelling, and if any further adjustments are required, Prologue has a partner in London that can assist. The Anthology, meanwhile, hosts regular trunk shows in London, New York and Tokyo.

“The best feeling is when someone puts on a jacket and almost forgets they are wearing it,” Tong says. And he has a point: Prologue’s linen suit is carefully fitted, but light and with enough “living room” that it doesn’t feel like an imposition. When I try it on for the first time, there is none of the stiffness that can sometimes accompany a new garment; it is as delicate as you would expect of custom tailoring, without ever feeling insubstantial either. Just don’t expect it to be ready in 24 hours.

Chris Allnutt travelled to Hong Kong as a guest of Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts and the Hong Kong Tourism Board

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