Mumbai, July 2024: Physically, we are in a beloved speakeasy in Worli Koliwada. But there’s someone different in charge of cocktails today and their enthusiasm is as electrifying as it is transportive. The stage is set to whisk us away someplace new – or, more specifically, to a plush bar in Barcelona’s El Born neighbourhood. The mixologists mesmerise us with philosophies and legends that inspired their liquid creations. They serve us glorious concoctions in artistic receptacles, some of which light up and change colour. Across the space, the conversations flow as smoothly as the libations. After all, the craftsmen behind the bar are simply living up to the name of their establishment – Paradiso.
The Barcelona speakeasy, which topped the list of World’s 50 Best Bars in 2022, recently took over Slink and Bardot in Mumbai for two nights. Unlike guests at Paradiso’s original location, city folks did not have the chance to go through the fridge of a pastrami shop in order to reach the divine delights inside. However, they did get to taste cocktails from the “Mysteries of the World” menu, which were expertly concocted by Andrea Pagliarini (Senior Bartender at Paradiso) and Matteo Ciarpaglini (Head Of Paradiso Lab).
The Messenja cocktail. Photo Credit: Paradiso
The Atlantis-inspired ‘Atlantide’ was served in a stunning wave-like bowl topped with a gold coin, echoing the motifs of sea and wealth. The ‘Revival Negroni,’ which paid homage to the versatility of mushrooms, arrived in a covered glass shaped to resemble the subject. The dazzling concoction appeared to change colour – in a nod to the enigmatic fluidity of the fungi. The ‘Messenja’, derived from the Japanese word for messenger, celebrated the Asian roots of its ingredients with a small glass “snake head” attached to the glass. Wonder, storytelling and finesse defined not just the drinks, but the experience. Perhaps it is better described by Andrea: “Paradiso is a magical place. Its approach is really fun, but really focused too.” Here are edited excerpts from our full conversation with Andrea and Matteo:
L-R: Matteo Ciarpaglini (Head Of Paradiso Lab) and Andrea Pagliarini (Senior Bartender) took over the bar at Slink and Bardot.
What is your favourite part about your profession? What makes it feel rewarding?
Matteo: I would say it is the creative part. Creativity is one of the core values of Paradiso [hospitality and sustainability are the other two]. We are always trying to develop new projects. It is extremely interesting. We are constantly pushing the boundaries and creating not just new cocktails, but new sensorial experiences. When people come to our bar, we want them to be wowed. We want to deliver something unexpected. For example, cocktails that begin to glow, garnishes that start to fly, etc. I’m also very grateful to be working with a team who is deeply involved with the projects. I was there when Paradiso Lab was established. In the beginning, there were only two of us and now we’re a group of seven.
While curating an overall cocktail experience, what do you feel is important apart from the drinks?
Andrea: For me, a bar experience is never only about the drinks. At Paradiso, the atmosphere is quite important and there are many aspects affecting it. Personally, the journey that led me to becoming a bartender at Paradiso was a long one and it has helped me understand all the different parts that contribute to the experience. Paradiso Lab, which is helmed by Matteo, is the heart and soul of the production of the bar. But everyone has a role to play. For instance, as a waiter, one has to work very quickly and learn how to manage the crowd once inside. The chefs in the kitchen will see to the gastronomy. As a bartender, I have to focus completely on taking care of the customer. Apart from making their drinks well, you have to welcome them, build a relationship with them and fix any problems right away.
Even the doorman has a role. In fact, the doorman is actually one of the most important figures at Paradiso. We usually have long lines and people can get impatient and frustrated. It could be raining, or it could be hot, and they just want to get inside. The doorman has to gently explain the same thing thousands of times to everyone in the queue. He has to ensure they are comfortable and it is not always easy. We are very lucky because our doorman, Joaquin, is amazing.
Inside Paradiso Barcelona
What aspect of these takeovers and collaborations do you enjoy?
Andrea: It’s our [mine and Matteo’s] first time in India. Before us, other people from the Paradiso team have visited the country. For me, coming to Mumbai for an event like this, is very different, even if you just talk about gastronomy – it is amazing. I’m fond of Asian food, so I am enjoying the strong flavours and use of spices here.
Matteo: It’s not just gastronomy, it’s a whole new culture. When you travel to a new country, you’re meeting people and discovering new traditions. I think such collaborations give us a lot. You have a better understanding not just of your work, but of the world.
Are you taking back any inspirations and/ or ingredients from Mumbai?
Matteo: The easy answer is spices, of course. But there’s another idea I’m eager to learn more about. We have been talking to chefs here and they introduced us to the concept of Ayurveda and how it is used in food and drink. That is definitely something I want to research when I get the chance.
Andrea: I will realise what has inspired me only once I return to Barcelona. A similar thing happened when I travelled to Japan. I did a lot of exploration while I was there. Once I got back home and I was inside the lab, with the doors closed, ideas started coming back to me. I found myself thinking differently because of my experiences in Japan. So, all I can say is that something is going to happen in terms of new cocktails or flavours [inspired by my trip].
If you had to give one piece of advice to people eager to try new cocktails, what would it be?
Matteo: I would advise them to visit an international cocktail bar and listen to their bartender. I think there’s no one better to guide you on your journey. Any good bartender has to understand the tastes of the customers. They will accordingly show you what to start with, which dishes to pair with the drinks, when is the right time to order, etc. And you would have to go and do this many times to understand and appreciate the experience properly.
Andrea: I agree with Matteo. That’s one of the best things you can do while trying something new. It is also helpful to sit at the counter. Maybe you can ask your bartender to make something special for you. Or you can ask them questions to learn more. Whether the bartender is shy or talkative as a person, I’m sure they will answer you because they have a passion for what they are doing – that’s why they are behind the bar.
