Review: The Tables New Menu Promises A Journey From Farm To Table To Memory

“We are never about, ‘Look at how much we can do!’ I think the food is simple and is not trying to show off,” says Chef Will Aghajanian, when asked to define the essence of the dining experience at The Table. Chef Will has recently been appointed as Chef-in-Residence at Colaba’s beloved and multi-award-winning hotspot. Originally from Washington D.C., Chef Will has worked in several renowned kitchens including Per Se in New York, MIMI in Greenwich Village, The Catbird Seat in Nashville, and Horses in Los Angeles. His new menu for the Mumbai restaurant, ‘The Table 2.0,’ marks a complete overhaul after 13 years of its establishment. “Food that gives you a sense of the season and highlighting India’s ingredients are two pillars of the new menu,” he summarises. But how does this translate into a meal? We feasted there to find out.

The initial treats encapsulated the hospitality and casual charm one associates with The Table. The Warm Brioche with whipped goat butter and Pappa al Pomodoro Toast were quickly polished off. We must say, their deliciousness may even convert those who believe against starting with bread. What followed was a smooth and spectacular Duck Liver Mousse with sour cherry. We observed reverent silence to savour it to the fullest. 

When one is dining at the restaurant that pioneered the farm-to-table philosophy in the country, it would be hard not to have high hopes for the salads. Fortunately, there was no disappointment in store for us, only delight. While The Table’s legendary Sobo Salad retains its place on the menu, don’t hesitate to try out the vibrant new offerings. We loved the Panzanella (with crushed cucumber, shaved onion, and summer tomatoes) as well as the Lollo Rosso & Guava Salad (with chicory, Kashmiri Pistachio, Belper Knolle). The wonderful burst of freshness that accompanied each bite was a testament to the restaurant’s robust ingredient-driven foundation.

Among the vegetarian small plates, we also relished the Focaccia Di Recco, with winter truffle, Stracchino cheese and oven-roasted grapes. In a way, this divine dish captures the symphony of wine and cheese – on a plate. But that doesn’t mean you should skip the glass. Wine holds a place of eminence at The Table. Its wine program has won the ‘Award For Excellence’ by the Wine Spectator every year since 2019. The sommelier can recommend pairings that beautifully elevate the flavours of the fresh ingredients on your plate. The cocktails are not to be missed either – many regulars swear by The Table Mary, among other libations. While there is a set list of signature and classic cocktails, you will also often find special limited-time menus that spotlight seasonal ingredients and/or novel techniques.

As we sipped our drinks, we also enjoyed the refreshing bounty of the sea. If you want a cool and crisp bite, go for the Smoked Salmon Tostada. Seeking something more indulgent and visually impressive? The Lobster Fra Rothschild, which comes with a dapper bow tie, is sure to wow. The Crab Cake Toast is a sort of DIY project you assemble at the table, per your preferences. Cut the cake with an enormous pair of scissors, wrap it with lettuce, top it with pickles and sauces, and be ready for an amazing explosion of flavour.

Comfort and indulgence radiate from the pasta and large plates sections of the menu. We relished every scrumptious bite of the Garden Herb Fazzoletti with Tuscan chicken liver ragu, garnished with the goodness of winter truffles. The Pan-Roasted Cornish Hen is loosely based on the infamous roast chicken served at Zuni Cafe (an iconic establishment in San Francisco), Chef Will later revealed. It was a succulent delicacy that marked the end of the savoury part of our feast.

We have heard stories of loyal patrons on diets saving their precious ‘cheat’ sweet opportunities for when they dine at The Table. The dessert selection is enticingly diverse. Each treat we tasted struck a balance between familiarity and sophistication. The melt-in-the-mouth Jersey Creme Caramel had a teasing hint of spice derived from Montenegro. The Prosecco-enhanced Santa Rosa Plum Sorbet and the Passion Fruit & Mandarin Creamsicle offered cool, fruity satisfaction. We also loved the deftly elevated classics like the Marshmallow Ice Cream and the Cherry Jubilee Meringue Cake.

When I asked Chef Will about his vision for the new menu, he said, “I wanted to make a more cohesive menu. There have been so many great chefs who have created dishes for The Table in the past, but it was all like a book written by 4 different authors. I just wanted to make simple food, somewhere I would be excited to eat multiple times a week.” Indeed, we were left wishing we had the good fortune to savour such delights week after week. Our dinner at this Colaba institution did not just trace the journey from farm to table. It was an experience that has etched itself into the next destination – our cherished memories.

Where: The Table, Ground Floor, Kalapesi Trust Building, opposite Dhanraj Mahal, Apollo Bandar, Colaba, Mumbai.