The man who wants to shine in Paris, from Bluemarble to Amiri

Men’s Fashion Week in Paris continues apace from show to show, without too much trouble despite traffic jams and threatening grey skies. On Thursday, the third day of shows, several designers illuminated their collections for spring-summer 2025 with sparkling flashes, concocting luxurious wardrobes for men who want to parade day and night. This was the case for Bluemarble and Amiri, among others.

 
As last summer, Amiri chose the Jardin des Plantes as his backdrop, setting up a bandstand with a small jazz group led by English drummer and composer Yussef Dayes, who accompanied the show live. Once again, Californian Mike Amiri expressed his love of music through details that didn’t go unnoticed, such as these gold brooches in the shape of treble clefs or these delightful round clutch bags in the shape of drums.
 
Before moving into fashion and founding his high-end fashion house in 2014, the former law student worked for rock bands, for whom he created special stage outfits. Using luxury denim and highly crafted leather pieces, he gradually enriched his world with more glamour, which the most highly rated American rappers and musicians are now crazy about.
 
In his collection, it’s simple: everything sparkles. Crystals rain down in fine stripes on flowing jackets. Sun rays ignite shirts and ties, while sequins create a shimmering, light-catching effect in a suit. Elsewhere, the collar of a white tuxedo jacket is covered in gold sequins.
 
Fabric flowers embroidered with rhinestones take over coloured shirts, while mohair knitwear is embroidered with stones. Tiny glittering baguettes replace braid around the collar and pockets of a jacket or along the leg of a pair of trousers in a side strip. Swarovski is superimposed on the seams of a denim jacket. The silhouette is cool, chic, impeccable in every situation.
 
Luxurious, refined details are everywhere, like two silk scarves, which have been transformed into the handles of a travel bag, or a gold chain hanging from the waistband of a pair of trousers, not forgetting the small, light jackets cut from satin. The materials, all luxurious, are at the heart of the collection, a blend of research and craftsmanship.

 
The same elegant vein runs through Bluemarble’s collection, which seems to be moving away from its very streetwear style, to move upmarket and initiate a much more glamorous chapter. Of course,  
the collection for next summer still includes many sportswear pieces, such as jeans, sweaters and a number of camouflage pieces, but they have been revisited or given a fashion twist.
 
Coloured inserts have made their way into canvas trousers, while stone embroidery embellishes denim pieces. In general, everything looks cleaner and more designer, like the workwear trousers, which have been reworked with darts in a tailoring spirit. Elsewhere, a long silk scarf emerged from a jacket pocket.
 
Sportswear pieces have also been revisited. A sleeveless hoodie was worn over a classic shirt, while a jacket and tank top were cut from blue-striped shirt cotton. Finally, for the first time, the young sneaker-loving label is offering moccasins, which are made in Italy.
 
Designer Anthony Alvarez works a lot on details, including in a playful spirit. For the trousers, he can’t afford the gold chain that hangs from the waist like Amiri’s… Never mind! He embroiders it directly onto the jeans in silver thread. Elsewhere, the seams of a mackintosh were marked not with precious stones, but with studs, in a more rock spirit.

In a blue or white shirt, the pen tucked into the pocket has rubbed off into a shiny stain. An extra pocket has been added to the front of the jeans, in a darker blue. The large chapka is made not from fur but from raffia.
 
“Never before has my vision seemed so clear, in the five years since I founded the brand. My vision is to go beyond all limits, in terms of style and attitude. It’s very daring,” the designer explained backstage, focusing on women this season with a number of looks and pieces, including cargos transformed into maxi skirts. The idea is to open up to female customers with capsule collections.