Sara Ali Khan in an embroidered corset and skirt from the collection
How do you take a ubiquitous fabric like denim — associated with rough use and daily wear — and make it look couture? This is a challenge, couturier Suneet Varma gladly took up as part of the Lee X Suneet Varma collaboration. By his own admission, Suneet likes to do things that seem difficult. “That’s what makes it exciting. If it’s not exciting, I am not interested,” he says over a call from Delhi.
Titled Denim Beyond Definition, the 46-piece collection recently hit the shelves and Suneet seems pleased with the result. It comprises denim in the form of skirts, corsets, dresses, boot leg pants with double flair, and avant garde pieces brimming with 3D flowers. “People’s idea of denim is easy, casual, rough and tough; it’s not been treated as something glamorous,” says Suneet, adding that this collection challenges that perception. These encapsulate a blend of comfort and couture that we aimed to achieve, he says, citing the example of a long skirt with a big trail and stone embroidery that Sara Ali Khan, the face of the campaign, wore. “And she said she could wear this to a big award night’,” adds Suneet.
Despite the unique cuts and modern silhouettes, these garments have an element of Indianness to them thanks to the intricate detailing like threadwork, crystal embroidery, digital and laser printing, and mirror embellishments. An approach that allowed Suneet to transform the versatile denim into something luxurious.
While the brand wanted to launch this collection sooner, development took a long time — four to five months. “Denim is known for its durability, but to achieve the right balance of fit and elegance, we experimented with various techniques including washes and treatments,” says the designer, whose first two jobs involved working with denim companies.
Denim Beyond Definition is divided into four categories: India Modern — heavy with thread embroidery; Diamante Denim — sparkling with stone and mirror embroidery; Rockstar, and Spice Route which has the more colourful garments. These will include mustards and burgundies and will launch around Deepavali.
Suneet is not new to the world of collaborations but with each project he tries to experiment with something new while playing to his strengths, in this case embellishments and embroidery. Over the years he has teamed up with Judith Leiber, where he designed luxurious bejewelled handbags; Arttd’inox, for stainless steel accessories; and BMW and Mini Cooper, for which he explored the intersection of fashion and automotive design. “I’ve also collaborated with DLF Emporio, Elephant Parade, Aulerth, Rumors, Swarovski, and Amazon,” he says, adding, “Each partnership offers a unique opportunity to blend my design vision with different sectors and create something truly special.”
The Lee X Suneet Varma collection is available on www.lee.in and is priced between ₹7,999 and ₹16,999.
Published – September 17, 2024 03:31 pm IST