Soft summery nostalgia amid change

Before a raft of young stars, Fendi staged a gently nostalgic collection on a steamy Saturday in Milan ironically amid much change at the house in its upper echelons.

 
The smoothly staged show marked the first appearance of new CEO Pierre-Emmanuel Angeloglou, a multi-lingual Frenchman, who sat smiling front row.
 
He can pleased with this latest collection from the house’s menswear designer Silvia Fendi, who tapped into oodles of Fendi’s DNA even as she updated the look with technical fabrics and a subtle sense of humor.

Ranging from the second skin suedes seen in lightweight trenches; saddle stitched jerkins in reindeer leather and fine knits with intricately cut versions of a Western neckline. 
 
“Our historic Selleria stitching is very much present, but it became very subtle, used as embroidery. It is not just stitching, but it’s about the virtuosity of the stitch applied on both accessories and ready-to-wear,” explained Silvia.
 
The designer also played with crests – a shield with a Janus head, Roman columns and the double F Fendi logo – seen in yellow ribbed knits or mock rugby sweaters.
 
“The idea was to create a Fendi Club, like a gentleman’s club, with a new crest we designed using the first House codes like the squirrel, the two-headed Roman god Janus, the Pequin stripe and the FF logo, of course,” explained Silvia, greeting a slew of young boldface names in a packed backstage. 
 
That was certainly true in this show, where everything reeked rich and top quality without ever being uptight. However, it was a little bit surprising to see the latest double-breasted suits, which were cut with curvy hems, rather like Dior Homme, designed by Fendi’s women’s designer Kim Jones.
 
Though Rome-born, Fendi has always shown its ready-to-wear in Milan, this season choosing a giant white space, which meant the cast were quite far apart from the audience. Never a great idea.

Thanks to Silvia, Fendi has real pulling power among celebs. Seen by her front-row Fendi men ambassadors, like British actor Nicholas Galitzine, and Japanese actor Ren Meguro, who prowled around pre-show holding up a handbag for scores of paparazzi. From music, friend of the house Marco Mengoni, Mr. Rain and Tananai; James Turlington, son of the iconic supermodel Christy Turlington, and Korean singer, Bang Chan. From cinema, enfant terrible filmmaker Xavier Dolan; from sports Tyrod Taylor of the New York Jets or Jonathan Kuminga of the Golden State Warriors.
 
Though La Silvia’s best idea were the excellent series of plaids in light pinks, pale greens, rose and sand – made into sporty trenches, cabans, varsity jackets and shorts. Sure to start a major menswear trend, and another example of Silvia’s prescience.
 
“I believe that Fendi is a brand of great depth. Of course, anyone in my position would say that, but I really believe it has a uniquely fantastic DNA, and I am very much looking forward to us creating something together here,” Angeloglou said.
 
He will also oversee a total of seven brands within the LVMH group, including Kenzo, Marc Jacobs and Pucci, though Fendi is by far the most important. 
 
In a subtle handover, Fendi’s departing CEO Serge Brunschwig was also present. He will leave Rome after over six years, a period in which Fendi on average scored double-digit annual growth.
 
Brunschwig declined to indicate where he was heading, or comment on rumors that LVMH was considering replacing Kim Jones. Rumors further ignited by the house’s decision to call off the Fendi haute couture show, in the upcoming Paris season in late June. And further inflamed last week by the decision of John Galliano to withdraw all his posts from his Instagram account, despite having 1.5 million followers. Igniting a storm of Internet chatter that he might be about to head to Rome and take over Fendi.
 
Asked about the Galliano talk, Brunschwig tightened his eyes and brushed off the idea with a laugh: “Ohhh, you had better ask Paris about that.”
 
Stay tuned.