Azure brings to life the colour spectrum of the ocean and the skies
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The metaphorical iterations of the colour blue may have attributed to its aesthetic value. No wonder, it has been the muse of many fashion designers — from Charles Lewis Tiffany’s trademark Tiffany blue and Yuima Nakazato’s 2022 collection Blue Season to Stella McCartney and Fendi taking to its pale shade during the spring/summer ’24 runway shows. Closer home, couturier Anita Dongre is romancing the hue’s association with Nature. Its prominent proportions in her newly launched collection, titled Azure, are coupled with eco-conscious craftsmanship. “True to the inspiration, Azure brings to life the colour spectrum of the ocean and the skies,” says Anita, who sourced Bemberg yarn exclusively from Asahi Kasei, a multinational Japanese chemical company that specialises in chemicals and materials science, for the collection.
The range comprises a variety of kaftans, dresses, saris and skirt sets
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A fantastical start
The range, which comprises a variety of kaftans, dresses, saris and skirt sets, was born from a dream. “I woke up one morning, buzzing to come to work and sit with my team because I had this vivid dream involving the sounds, textures and movement of waterscapes, which really inspired me. I wanted to encapsulate the flow and fluidity of water with a quiet feminine sensuality,” says the designer. She started working on the capsule around mid-August last year and states that the Mumbai monsoon added a lovely ambience while designing the collection. “It took us about six months [to curate the edit] because we were quite particular about getting the right fabric that captured the flow I imagined,” she adds. The motifs in the collection, she says, were designed with a watercolour aesthetic and translated on the garment using digital printing.
Fashion designer Anita Dongre
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Beaming with Bemberg
Bemberg is a brand of cupro, which is regenerated cellulose fibre. Made from 100% cotton linter that is a pre-consumer material, Bemberg is a sustainable material that is biodegradable and compostable. “The breeziness of the fabric was a perfect match. For this capsule, while we were working on the moodboard, they [Asahi Kasei] shared their latest development of soil and marine biodegradable yarn and everything just clicked,” says Anita.
The Azure collection is made entirely out of Bemberg yarn — sustainable, biodegradable and compostable material
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She shares that her brand started working with Bemberg about five years ago. “It seemed like a natural partnership since it represents our brand mission of being environmentally conscious. Over the years, we have consistently used Bemberg yarn for many of our designs and we love how invested they are in creating sustainable fibres. The Azure collection is made entirely out of Bemberg yarn,” she says.
Bemberg is uniquely suited for the tropical Indian climate, offering breathability and comfort
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Anita believes that Bemberg is uniquely suited for the tropical Indian climate, offering breathability and comfort in the sweltering heat, making it ideal for soaring temperatures and beach weddings. “Its soft, smooth texture adds a touch of luxury, appealing to brides or bridesmaids seeking elegant yet practical attire for destination weddings and fashion enthusiasts who appreciate high-quality fabrics with a touch of luxury,” she adds.
The motifs in the collection are designed with a watercolour aesthetic
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The limited-edition, ready-to-wear capsule, envisioned for summer soirees, ranges between ₹23,000 and ₹65,000 and is available across all of the designer’s stores in India as well as online.
Anita Dongre’s second edition of vegan accessories is made with Mirum — the world’s first plastic-free alternative to leather
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Bag a vegan pichhwai
Besides the clothing line, Anita Dongre has extended her commitment to ethical fashion with her new collection of vegan accessories. These accessories are made with Mirum — the world’s first plastic-free alternative to leather — a low-carbon, bio-based, tunable and responsibly sourced material. Each accessory features hand-painted motifs.
“We’re one of the first Indian brands to incorporate Mirum. This is our second drop of vegan accessories; the first edit was launched in January last year. This time around we’ve also incorporated hand-painted pichhwai on a vegan fabric base. We worked on it for over two years to understand the materials and incorporate it in our design language. The aim is to continue utilising it in our future collections too, since it aligns perfectly with our commitment to leather-free fashion,” says Anita.
Inspired by 400-year-old legacy of pichhwai paintings and heritage craft zardosi, the accessories feature hand-painted motifs. “We have also added a line of pichhwai bags hand-painted by our master artisans in Rajasthan. We work with artisan clusters across the country and strive to showcase our exquisite crafts. In the latest capsule we have also used our signature gota-patti embroidery as well as metal-engraved artwork,” adds Anita.
A bag in the collection showcases hand-painted pichhwai on a vegan fabric base
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