For designer Naushad Ali, inspiration for his latest collection, a collaboration with a legacy Chennai brand Sundari Silks, was all around him; in a language he loves, and in Tamil heritage that he deeply respects.
Jasmine flowers in various stages of bloom, markings from the panchangam or the traditional Tamil calendar, narrow temple borders, and motifs representing anklets, nethi chuttis, and pieces of jewellery. On saris in bright purples and blues, subtle beige, yellow, ivory, Indiapress and a gauzy gold, these are just some elements that are woven in, each with a special significance, and a story of culture to tell.
“I was drawn to elements that have shaped Tamil visual culture for centuries. These references hold a quiet sense of ancestry and identity. My own design language has always leaned towards minimalism, restraint, and clarity, and I wanted to bring that sensibility into the sari form without disturbing its essence,” Naushad says.
Featuring 24 saris, the collection, which was unveiled in Chennai on Tuesday has been nearly two years in the making. A few years ago, Puducherry-based Naushad worked with Sundari Silks on a menswear collection. The decision to collaborate on saris is something he says has taken people by surprise.
“I have designed saris for my label’s collections in the past; but it usually is to break the monotony. One sari would probably feature in a full collection. This collaboration with Sundari however was an interesting challenge,” he says.
Manmohan Ram and Naushad Ali
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Special Arrangement
To begin work on the collection, Naushad and Manmohan Ram, managing partner, Sundari Silks recall their journey to Benaras, to meet with weavers, decide on colours and ultimately, get the saris woven there. “This was a collection that was initially conceived for Kanjivarams, but we realised that we had to play around with silks given the work we wanted done on the saris. The saris had to be light, comfortable and wearable,” Naushad explains.
Given the intrinsically Tamil elements that inspire the collection, zeroing in on the colours of the saris too was a well-thought out effort. “We have colours like ‘Ramar pacchai’, a type of green for instance which is very unique to our culture. I wanted to bring these colours back but with a fresher approach, while also wanting to break what a typical sari from South India looks like. We experimented with combinations like pastel mints with reds, and a translucent beige with gold motifs for instance,” the designer says.
From gulmohar flowers, jasmine buds described in Tamil poetry and narrow temple borders, the motifs might be many, but have been used sparingly through the saris. This is deliberate, Naushad says, to let the colours and weaves take precedence, letting a minimal aesthetic shine through.
“We know many young sari wearers for instance, do not like accessorising with heavy jewellery, and were excited about having a sari that featured jewellery motifs instead,” he says.
At the T Nagar Sundar Silks showroom, Manmohan says that the collection will be made available for sale and displayed in a way that reflects the thought that has gone into its making. “The collection has just the right balance, with Naushad bringing together traditional and contemporary design elements and motifs,” he says.
“We have always been experimenting across our womenswear, menswear and even accessories, and this was an opportunity for us to work on a contemporary collection and champion creativity,” Manmohan adds.
Priced ₹28,000 onwards and available at Sundari Silks, T Nagar
Published – January 08, 2026 06:30 am IST
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