Georges Kern is a man on a mission. Ever since he took over the reins of Breitling in 2017, he has transformed the brand that was once known for hard-nosed tool watches into one that balances heritage, elegance, performance and contemporary cool. After the successful relaunches of three of the Flying B’s most iconic families — Chronomat, SuperOcean and Navitimer — and the addition of the Lady Premier, a new range of watches designed only for women, Georges, who was in India last week for the launch of Breitling’s first boutique in Mumbai spoke about Breitling’s evolution. On the cards is the plan to launch two new sister brands — Gallet and Universal Genève — under what he calls his “House of Brands”.
Georges Kern, CEO of Breitling
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Excerpts from the interview:
Q: Do you intend to claim woman’s watch category with the Lady Premier?
Georges: A brand’s essence does not change. Some are naturally masculine, others feminine — Cartier is more feminine, Breitling more masculine, and perhaps only Rolex appeals to both genders in equal measure. But that does not mean a masculine brand can’t make watches for women. Models designed for women account for about 17% of our turnover; we think that can reach 25%.
Over the past few years, we have built that segment step by step — first, sports pieces such as the SuperOcean and Chronomat range for women, then the more elegant Navitimer, and now the Lady Premier. You must do the right thing at the right moment. Eight years ago, Breitling’s image was “big, loud pilot watches”— like a Hummer. Today, we are more like an Aston Martin SUV: powerful, but elegant. The Lady Premier completes our presence in the female segment with a refined, smaller-sized option that works beautifully in markets like India and Asia.
After the successful relaunches of three of the Flying B’s most iconic families — Chronomat, SuperOcean and Navitimer — Breitling launches Lady Premier, a new range of watches designed only for women
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Q: Since you took over as the CEO, Breitling has become more elegant and less about instruments for professionals. What does that change mean for the brand?
Georges: Transformations are always tricky. We had to move fast: refresh distribution, boutiques, advertising, and highlight products that embodied the new look.
The real breakthrough was the Chronomat. We launched it right before the pandemic, investing heavily when everyone else paused. When markets reopened, demand exploded. The Chronomat — with its bullet bracelet — captured our modern-retro philosophy and showed people that Breitling could be cool, elegant and versatile. Then came the renaissance of the Navitimer.
Social media confirmed the shift. Other Swiss brands can be conservative; our advertising, boutique design and even the Lady Premier film show that we’re approachable and a little daring.
The sage-coloured Breitling Lady Premier
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Q: You are expanding despite the tariffs and geopolitical turmoil. How do you sustain momentum?
Georges: We just announced a major partnership with the The National Football League, a professional American football league in the United States, and for the first time they have worked with a luxury brand. The U.S. sales are 25% of our turnover. To offset tariffs, we raised prices four percent in the U.S. and two percent elsewhere. I am convinced the tariff issue will soon normalise.
Europe is weak, but Latin America is strong, as are parts of the Middle East. Japan cooled slightly after a great year, and India is rising fast. .
We recalibrate investments rather than change strategy: double down on the U.S. and India, slow in Europe.
Aubergine-coloured Lady Premier
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Q: You are visiting India for a second consecutive year. How do you see this market?
Georges:
We had three boutiques 18 months ago; now we have seven and plan 10. The limitation is not demand but the lack of luxury malls. More are coming, hopefully. Encouragingly, more Indians are buying locally rather than in Dubai or London. What’s missing is the full experience: the Rue Saint-Honoré or Avenue Montaigne feel. Once that retail infrastructure is ready, every luxury brand will follow.
In November, at the Dubai Watch Week, Breitlingwill present its House of Brands — three complementary marques: Gallet, Breitling and Universal Genève
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Q: You are reviving not one but two historic names. How will Gallet and Universal Genève flank Breitling?
Georges: In November, at the Dubai Watch Week, we will present our House of Brands — three complementary marques. Galletwill cover the CHF 2,500–4,500 range. Breitling will remain our core, CHF 3,500–50,000 and Universal Genève will start around CHF 15,000 and go up. Gallet will be a sister brand, clearly marked Manufactured by Breitling, but with its own history and design. It was used by the Wright Brothers, worn by President Truman; it produced the first GMT, the Flying Officer.
When we aimed to reposition Breitling as a 100% manufacture brand, we left behind entry-level pieces like the Colt. Gallet fills that gap with authenticity and accessibility. Universal Genève is a different story — if Gallet is smart, Universal is brilliant. It occupies the high-luxury space, with an average price near CHF 30,000.
It’s about everyday wearability and design, not complications. We’ll offer micro-rotor automatics and chronographs — because people expect that at this level — and a steel automatic micro-rotor will start around CHF 15,000. But the real focus is aesthetic excellence and effortless luxury.
Published – November 06, 2025 12:42 pm IST
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